How should I move a beta fish from a bowl to a new filtered tank?
I would suggest you first allow the new take to filer. I would also add the water in the fish bowl as this has a certain amount of bacteria which will add to the cycling. Once you are ready I would turn the lights off in the new tank and place the Beta in a plastic bag. Clip the bag to the edge of the tank open, over a period of about 30-45 minuets slowly pour about 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag allowing the fish to acclimate to the new water. Once the bag has been filled with the new water it should be safe to pour the Beta in to the new tank. once the Beta seems comfortable turn the tank lights on.
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What's a safe alternative for TapSafe?
Salt wont do anything, just leave your tank as is and get some conditioner tmwr morning. If you have alot of tank water out already, you can add a tiny bit of water, like a gallon depending how big your tank is and it wont do any harm for a day :)
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fluval edge aquarium problems with filter and others! please advice me?
One huge difference between sand and gravel is where the waste goes. In gravel it can sink into between the stone. With sand it cannot go any where but on top. Filters can never get waste that far down.they can only get it if it's up in the water. And if everyday you have that much waste your tank is probably overstocked. What do you mean by not quiet? If it's a water splashing sound you can always just fill up the tank more. If it sounds like something is caught in the filter you need to remove the cartridges and get a bucket full of tank water. Unplug the filter and stick it in the bucket. You may need to take it apart -- the intake tube should come off and the motor inside is usually kept in place with a magnet so give it a pull and it should come out. Sometimes the filters get gunk caught in them and they need to be cleaned. Have you tested the water? Is anything weird with the readings? The tank is cycled right? It sounds like a common pleco. You did not say how big your tank is but those guys need a minimum of a 75 gallon. They can get over a foot long. You should have somewhere for him to hide during the day when the lights are on. They are nocturnal fish and like the dark much better than bright lights. Do not do that anymore. You are stressing him out and they can hurt themselves by trying to hide and get away from the light. You need to get somewhere for him to hide in/under. You also need to make sure your feeding him both veggies and algae wafers at night on a regular basis. :] ** shrimp will not eat poop. I would not add anymore fish until you figure out if you are overstocked.
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Fish died...should I change tank water for other fish?
change half of it every 10 days . not all stress will kill them it to much of change in water
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My tank looks fine, but smells funky.....?
"I have rinsed out the filters ...." Hope that was in tank water (in a bucket) not tap water... tap water filter = no bio-filtration. The smell is definitely "water quality" related.... more than likely a nitrite spike (smells different than an ammonia spike) from the rapid rise in stock and not enough (maybe none now... see above) filtration. Rise in food input does not help either. You need to test the water,do water changes accordingly to maintain 0 ammonia/nitrite and 10(or less) on the nitrate.... filtration is definitely going to have to be upped (empty tank?... where are those filters?) and feeding definitely cut back for now until stock is reduced.
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what is wrong with my discus?
One thing I have learnt by keeping Discus is that they do not usually just die for "no reason". In most cases there is some sign that something is wrong. When I ignored these signs, I lost precious fish. Some of the diseases and parasites I have encountered are described below. Hole in the Head Syndrome This is a disease often associated with Discus, but it also affects Geophagus species, Uaru amphiacanthoides and Astronotus ocellatus. If treated correctly it need not be a problem. I left untreated, it can cause permanent scarring and even death. The most important treatment is heat treatment. Over a couple of days raise the temperature from 30C to 36C. Additional aeration will be required to ensure adequate oxygen supply. This temperature must be maintained for 8 to 10 days for full recovery, however, the temperature must be dropped if the fish goes into stress. In addition to heat, the fish can be given Flagyl (Metronidazole) orally once every three days for the duration of the heat treatment. See next paragraph for the method. Internal parasites Internal parasites in the gut can be assumed, if the fish becomes emaciated or produces white, jelly-like faeces. I have no idea of what species of parasites are infecting our fish, but in most cases heat treatment (as for Hole-In-The-Head Syndrome) and Flagyl given orally cures the fish. To treat the fish, assuming the fish is still eating, soak some live blood worms or black mosquito larvae in a solution of 10 ml of liquid Flagyl to 200 ml of water for about one hour. Then feed the worms or wrigglers to the fish. This treatment can be repeated every 2 to 3 days for 10 days. If the fish is not eating, then the job is a little more difficult. I have had success by removing the fish from the water and placing it on a wet towel and injecting (using a syringe without needle) the medication down its throat. I use a 2 ml syringe and a mixture of 1 part liquid Flagyl, 2 parts of Liquifry (to try and get the fish's strength up) and 3 parts water. Before returning the fish to the tank wait for the fish to swallow. It is normal for excess medication to be expelled from the fishes gills and mouth. This treatment can be done twice a day, until the fish shows signs of recovery. The treatment of non-eating fish is not always successful. External parasites External parasites come in many types and I am unsure of exact species. However, I have found by symptoms, that there are differences and different medications are required. Basically I have two main medications for use for external parasites. * Jungle Labs Parasite clear which I use for fish that are scratching themselves on objects in the tank. I believe this to be skin fluke and use this drug for anything I feel requires mild treatment. Dosage is one tablet for every 40 litres of tank water, repeating two weeks thereafter. Gill fluke Gill fluke is a common disease in Discus and is worth mentioning separately to other external parasites. In adult Discus, it is usually associated with heavy breathing, however, in fry it causes much greater problems. When young Discus get to around 10 cent piece size, gill fluke may become a problem. The parents carry gill flukes in small amounts all the time and if the parents are left with the babies too long, after free-swimming, then the parents can pass them on to the babies. The classic symptoms are heavy breathing, and erratic swimming as though the fish has been bitten on the gill by something inside. This can be accompanied by a spasm and sudden paralysis resulting in the fish sinking motionless to the bottom. This condition seems to be brought on by overcrowding and high feeding rates associated with raising the fry, and can be avoided sometimes by spreading the fry out as they grow. Bacterial infections Bacterial infections can strike Discus the same as any other fish and I have found that two medications are good. * The best is Chloromycetin and comes in powder form. The dosage is one teaspoon to 100 litres of water. It is always fast acting and some improvement should be noticed in 8 hours if it is going to work for that condition. A second dose after two days may be needed, but there is no need to remove the previous dose as it dissipates out after 12 hours. It is important to store Chloromycetin absolutely dry and away from light. * The other medication is Oxolinic Acid. A stock solution of half a gram of the powder in 500 ml of de-ionised water can be made up and stored. The dosage is 1 ml of the stock solution to 10 litres of tank water. This treatment is only effective on some types of infections. White Spot and Velvet Disease These two diseases are rare in Discus due to the high water temperature (30C) they are kept at. But if you do happen to get these parasites then heat treatment will cure it without drugs. White spot is treated with 34C for 10 days, whereas Velvet Disease is treated for 2 days. Heat treatment can cure many problems, because most parasites can not withstand high temperatures. Another parasite, which is also treated with heat, is Costia: 33C - 34C for 4 days. Where to obtain these medications * Flagyl in suspension (liquid Flagyl) is a prescription drug from the chemist. A prescription can be obtained from a veterinarian, if required. * Para-Ex is made by Wardleys and is available from aquarium shops. * Chloromycetin, can be obtained in capsule form from some chemists of veterinarians and some aquarium shops. * Oxolinic acid can be obtained through a chemist from chemical supply houses. Precautions When heat treatment is used, use a separate low wattage externally adjustable heater and keep a careful eye on the temperature as often as possible. Make adjustments only if someone is home for a few hours after the adjustment, to minimise the risk of "cooking" your fish. When administering medications, calculate the tank capacity accurately to avoid overdosing. A good method is to take the internal dimensions in centimeters and multiply the length by width by height to the water line divided by 1000.